Gary Rhodes Suet Beef Kidney Puddidng
Type | Pudding |
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Place of origin | England |
Main ingredients |
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Steak and kidney pudding is a traditional British main course in which beef steak and beef, veal, pork or lamb kidney are enclosed in suet pastry and slow steamed on a stove top.
History and ingredients [edit]
Steak puddings (without kidney) were part of British cuisine by the 18th century.[1] Hannah Glasse (1751) gives a recipe for a suet pudding with beef-steak (or mutton).[2] Nearly a century later Eliza Acton (1846) specifies rump steak for her "Small beef-steak pudding" made with suet pastry, but, like her predecessor, does not include kidney.[3]
An early mention of steak and kidney pudding appears in Bell's New Weekly Messenger on 11 August 1839 when the writer says:
Hardbake, brandy-balls, and syllabubs have given way to "baked-tates" and "trotters;" and the olden piemen are set aside for the Blackfriars-bridge howl of "Hot beef-steak and kidney puddings!"[4]
According to the cookery writer Jane Grigson, the first published recipe to include kidney with the steak in a suet pudding was in 1859 in Mrs Beeton's Household Management.[5] [n 1] Beeton had been sent the recipe by a correspondent in Sussex in south-east England, and Grigson speculates that it was until then a regional dish, unfamiliar to cooks in other parts of Britain.[5]
Beeton suggested that the dish could be "very much enriched" by the addition of mushrooms or oysters.[6] In those days oysters were the cheaper of the two: mushroom cultivation was still in its infancy in Europe and oysters were still commonplace.[5] In the following century Dorothy Hartley (1954) recommended the use of black-gilled mushrooms rather than oysters, because the long cooking is "apt to make [oysters] go hard".[7] [n 2]
Neither Beeton nor Hartley specified the type of animal from which the kidneys were to be used in a steak and kidney recipe. Grigson (1974) calls for either veal or beef kidney,[5] as does Marcus Wareing.[8] Other cooks of modern times have variously specified lamb or sheep kidney (Marguerite Patten, Nigella Lawson and John Torode),[9] beef kidney (Mary Berry, Delia Smith and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall),[10] veal kidney (Gordon Ramsay),[11] either pork or lamb (Jamie Oliver),[12] and either beef, lamb or veal kidneys (Gary Rhodes).[13]
Cooking [edit]
The traditional method, given in Beeton's recipe, calls for the meat to be put raw into a pastry-lined pudding basin, sealed with a pastry lid, covered with a cloth and steamed in a pan of simmering water for several hours. In Grigson's view "one gets a better, less sodden crust if the filling is cooked first",[5] and, after Hartley's, all the recipes from recent years mentioned above follow suit. In a 2012 article "How to cook the perfect steak and kidney pudding", Felicity Cloake identified one relatively modern recipe – by Constance Spry – that calls for the meat to go in raw, but found that it "comes out gloopy with flour, and tough as a Victorian boarding school".[14] In addition to the steak and kidney, the filling typically contains carrots and onions, and is pre-cooked in one or more of beef stock, red wine and stout.[14]
Nicknames [edit]
According to the Oxford Companion to Food, cockneys call steak and kidney pudding "Kate and Sydney Pud".[1] In the slang of the British Armed Forces and some parts of North West England, the puddings are called "babbies' heads".[15]
Notes, references and sources [edit]
Notes [edit]
- ^ The work was published in book form in 1861, but had appeared as a part-work over the previous two years.[5]
- ^ Hartley suggested that if seafood were wanted in a steak-and-kidney mix, cockles would be preferable to oysters.[7]
References [edit]
- ^ Glasse, p. 132
- ^ Acton, p. 369
- ^ "What is doing in London?". Bell's New Weekly Messenger. England. 11 August 1839. Archived from the original on 2 May 2022. Retrieved 19 March 2018 – via British Newspaper Archive.
- ^ a b c d e f Grigson, p. 243
- ^ Beeton, pp. 281–282
- ^ a b Hartley, pp. 87–88
- ^ "Steak and Kidney Pudding by Marcus Wareing" Archived 2021-05-12 at the Wayback Machine, The Caterer, 11 September 2006
- ^ Patten, p. 156; Lawson, Nigella. "Steak and kidney pudding" Archived 2021-11-27 at the Wayback Machine, Nigella Recipes. Retrieved 1 May 2022; and Torode, p. 122
- ^ Berry, pp. 184−185; Smith, Delia. "Mum's Steak and Kidney Plate Pie" Archived 2022-03-20 at the Wayback Machine, DeliaOnline. Retrieved 1 May 2022; and Fearnley-Whittingstall, p. 53
- ^ Ramsay, p. 138
- ^ Oliver, Jamie. "Steak and kidney pudding" Archived 2022-05-02 at the Wayback Machine, jamieoliver.com. Retrieved 1 May 2022
- ^ Rhodes (1994), p. 122 and (1997), p. 118
- ^ a b Cloake, Felicity. "How to cook the perfect steak and kidney pudding" Archived 2022-03-31 at the Wayback Machine, The Guardian, 1 March 2012
- ^ Seal and Blake, p. 6
Sources [edit]
- Acton, Eliza (1846). Modern Cookery, in All its Branches. London: Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans. OCLC 969517810.
- Beeton, Isabella (1861). The Book of Household Management. London: S.O. Beeton. OCLC 1045333327.
- Berry, Mary (2006). Mary Berry's Christmas Collection. London: Headline. ISBN978-0-7553-1562-8.
- Davidson, Alan (1999). The Oxford Companion to Food . Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN0-19-211579-0.
- Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh (2005). The River Cottage Year. London: Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN978-0-340-82822-9.
- Glasse, Hannah (1751). The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. London: Hannah Glasse. OCLC 1155400954.
- Grigson, Jane (1992). English Food. London: Ebury Press. ISBN978-0-09-177043-3.
- Hartley, Dorothy (1999) [1954]. Food in England. London: Macdonald and Jane's. ISBN978-1-85605-497-3.
- Ramsay, Gordon (2009). Gordon Ramsay's Great British Pub Food. London: HarperCollins. ISBN978-0-00-728982-0.
- Rhodes, Gary (1994). Rhodes Around Britain. London: BBC Books. ISBN978-0-563-36440-5.
- Rhodes, Gary (1997). Fabulous Food. London: BBC Books. ISBN978-0-563-38385-7.
- Patten, Marguerite (1958). Learning to Cook with Marguerite Patten. London: Pan. ISBN978-0-330-23025-4.
- Seal, Graham; Blake, Lloyd (2013). Century of Silent Service. Salisbury, Queensland: Boolarong Press. ISBN978-1-922-10989-7.
- Torode, John (2008). Beef. London: Quadrille. ISBN978-1-84400-690-8.
See also [edit]
- List of beef dishes
- List of steak dishes
- List of steamed foods
- Steak and kidney pie
- Suet pudding
External links [edit]
- Steak and kidney pudding recipe at bbc.co.uk
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steak_and_kidney_pudding
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